Riding a wave is an experience that many do not get to have. The anticipation of waiting 10 minutes for one set is exhilarating, but once that wave does come, you paddle your heart out for a breath-taking ten second ride (if you’re lucky).
My name is Paige Milner, I was born and raised on Vancouver Island, but most of my surfing happens in a little town called Jaco, Costa Rica. When we first began going to Costa, my dad strapped the leash and the board to my ankle and threw me in the water. Even with the beginning steps of catching the smallest waves, having many near drowning experiences, and paddling away from an alligator one day who was looking for a nice little Canadian snack, I was hooked. For my birthday, my parents got me a handmade board by a local named Carton. My parents couldn’t keep me out of the water once I had my own board. My brother on the other hand, won’t step foot on a board but he’d keep me company by swimming around me and hanging off my board while I wait for the next wave. The adrenaline rush you get when you begin to frantically paddle, read the wave and pop up is exhilarating. And all of this is because of a piece of fiberglass. Your traveling experiences begin to revolve around surfing; your destination begins to revolve around surfing; all because of a simple board and a love for the water. It’s a lifestyle.